There’s always something a little surreal about the start of a new trip, like stretching muscles you haven’t used in a while. On March 26th, feeling a bit “out of overlanding shape,” we dusted off our beloved Voukefalas and rolled out onto the open road, kicking off the first leg of a long-dreamed-of expedition.
Cliffside Drives to Desert Dreams that is what this first part of our expedition was all about. After a quick pit stop at our friend Nikos’ place (and a solid round of catching up), we aimed north toward Konitsa, planning to spend the night under a bridge beside the Aoos River before crossing into Albania and boarding the ferry in Durres bound for Italy.
Touching down in Italy, our first destination was the storybook town of Matera, that once was off the tourist radar, and now finally basking in the limelight it deserves. Carved straight from the surrounding hills, it’s a place where history and architecture whisper to you from every stone wall. From Matera, we beelined to what many call “The Gem of Southern Italy”,the Amalfi Coast. And wow!!! Overlanding this slice of coastal magic is no Sunday drive. We kicked things off in Sorrento under moody, rain-brushed skies. Although the rain made up for a drive that felt part rollercoaster, part postcard ,the narrow cliff-hugging roads, curved in dramatic rock faces on one side and sweeping views of the Mediterranean on the other paid off. Positano’s stacked pastel buildings, Amalfi’s proud cathedral, and the peaceful vibes of Ravello, Maiori, and Minori were all as gorgeous as expected. But was that all the real charm? No of course not, the real charm of the Amalfi comes from venturing off the main drag and discovering tucked-away treasures few travellers get to see. This stretch reminded us why we love overlanding, this blend of freedom, spontaneity, and landscapes that change with every curve is magic. After a couple of nights with hearts (and cameras) full, we rolled into Salerno, the final town on the Amalfi trail—and the launching pad for our next adventure: Tunisia.
If Italy was our appetiser, Tunisia was the main course, bold, raw, colourful, and full of spice. Stepping off the ferry, we were welcomed by Sidi Bou Said, a town so picturesque it feels painted into the cliffs. Think Santorini meets Andalusia: blue doors, whitewashed walls, and cobblestone streets that tumble toward the sea. We arrived just in time for Eid, and the town was buzzing. As you do in this kind of situations….we joined the crowd, mint tea in hand, letting the festive energy wash over us. After a stop at the ancient ruins of Carthage and a few more days of cultural immersion, we hit the road with direction north to Cape Angela, the northernmost point of Africa. There’s not much there aside from a wind-whipped monument and jaw-dropping cliffs, but standing at the literal edge of a continent? Yeah that gave us Goosebumps!
Gotta say it though, Tunisia’s post-2011 journey has left some pretty visible scars. Ever since the Arab Spring shook things up and Ben Ali runaway with most of the countries wealth , it feels like the place has been riding solo, with no real backup. Trash? Kinda everywhere. Cities? Looking like no one’s shown them any love for ages. Buildings are hanging in there cracked walls, broken windows, but still very much lived in. And the infrastructure? Let’s just say it’s hanging on by a thread. For me at least, that I was here in 2010, it was sad to witness this, especially knowing the heart this place had.
Next, we pointed our wheels south and after an unsuccessful visit to a natural thermal baths, we stumbled into Sbeitla, home to some of Tunisia’s most stunning Roman ruins. Imagine walking through temples and arches with no ropes, no crowds just the sound of your footsteps echoing through history. The Capitolium trio of temples left us in awe, and a mosaic in a Christian baptistry moved us enough that Rochelle’s already planning to recreate it.
Next up was the perfect sample of those places that find you rather than you find them. This places don’t make it into guidebooks, they make it into your soul, Khanget Maala was one of those. We followed little more than a name on a map and ended up deep in Tunisia’s wild northwest, driving dirt tracks through Berber villages and valleys that seem untouched by time. Narrow enough canyons for a single car, kept our cameras on fire as this wasn’t just a drive , it rather seemed as a pioneer’s exploration quest..
From there, the scenery shifted as we cruised west to the small oasis of Chebika. Just imagine the edge of the world meets a lush desert oasis. Once a Roman outpost, today it’s part ghost town, part palm-filled canyon. We hiked through its gorge, climbed to sweeping views over Chott el-Gharsa, and soaked in the surreal beauty of it all. Mides Gorge came next, a cinematic rift in the earth, just a stone’s throw from the borders of Algeria. Getting there meant navigating cliffside roads and rocky ridges, but the payoff? A landscape that could give the Grand Canyon a run for its money.
Rolling back through the oasis town of Tozeur, we chilled under palm trees, wandered through brickwork medinas, and geeked out at the abandoned Star Wars set in Ong Jemel. Crossing Chott El Jerid, an eerie salt flat feelt more Mars than Earth before reaching Douz.
Finally, we had arrived to the so-called “Gateway to the Sahara.” Think camels, date palms, and a vibe that’s equal parts traditional and adventurous. The desert called though, and we answered with an off-road trip through Jebel National Park. It didn’t go exactly as planned(we wanted to spend the night out there), but even though we were turned down by the rangers, the detours paid off in an unforgettable way.
Next up: Matmata. This desert town is famous for its troglodyte homes, underground dwellings that look like something from another galaxy. Fittingly, one of them was Luke Skywalker’s home in A New Hope. We’re not diehard fans of Star War movies, but sipping a cold beer in the galactic homestead was defiantly Worth it!
Then came Ksar Ghilane, an oasis that appears like a dream from the dunes. A hot spring in the middle of nowhere, quad rides over golden sands, and a night under the stars. Rustic, remote, and magic in every sense. It was here that a strong sandstorm hit us making our stay cut short as the sandblast got unbearable. So Rochelle had an idea:”With diesel being relative cheap and the coast 3 hours away, why don’t we take a break and head to the island of Djerba till that constant sandblasting stops. Wise thought I would say !! So a couple of hours later here we where driving the Roman causeway, that linked the island of Djerba to the mainland. In Djerba now there was a blend of beach-town chill and rich cultural history vibe Tunisian style. We wandered colourful souks in Houmt Souk, visited the sacred El Ghriba Synagogue, and admired street art in Erriadh that turned every alley into a gallery before we retreat in one of the campsites by the beach. Do not come here expecting tropical paradise though, Djerba is beach resort island frozen in the 1980 with all the good and bad that come with it.
What was up next? Mars or more correctly Mars looking landscape surrounding the city of Tataouine, our next destination. This southern Tunisian gem isn’t just a name-drop from the galaxy far, far away, it’s a full-on vibe. Think sandy landscapes, surreal architecture, and a feeling like you’ve accidentally wandered onto a movie set… because, well, you kinda have. Our advise spend as little as possible of your time in the city it self ,head to the surroundings that is were the magic hides .Out there and further in the Star Wars quest was Ksar Ouled Soltane—aka the granary that went full Hollywood. This place is stacked (literally) with old-school storage rooms called ghorfas, all layered up like a mud-brick cake. You might recognise it from Star Wars, but even if you’re not into lightsabers, the vibe is strong with this one. Climb around, explore the nooks, and try not to squeal when you realise you’re basically inside a living time capsule.
Next day and after an overnight outside Tataouine where we witness a berber wedding, we rolled into Chenini and boom, we where in a hill-hugging village that looks like it was handcrafted by desert spirits. If that was not impressive enough we then moved to Douiret an ubanded city with houses carved into rock? Oh yeah. This place is like an open-air museum with zero crowds and 100% atmosphere. Bonus: the sunset glow here will have your camera go battery flat in no time. Southern Tunisia doesn’t play. It’s wild, weird, and wonderful in the absolute best way.
At this point and as the desert sandstorm had stoped us from spending a night under the stars in Ksar Ghilan we decided to head back. This time we aimed to stay away from the oasis and into the depth of the desert. On the road though our back door suddenly decided to opened half way and got damaged causing a great amount of stress, specially to me. Did we give up? No!! In a true overland way and a dose of magic, a couple of days later and with the help of the friendly locals, our door was fixed and we where back on our way. That night, the desert was finally to our favour. We arrive in a perfect sunset followed by a windless night under the stars!!Our time there was pure magic!! The hi light of our stay in Tunisia so far!!!
With all those pictures in our heads it was time to point our overland compass north on our final approach stopping along the way to Mahdia and Monastir that both had their own charm as well as the second biggest Roman amphitheatre in El Jem. Then there was Sousse ,where the medina’s maze meet the beach. The cities ancient walls throw shade (literally) to all directions while alleyways dare you to get lost. One minute you’re charming a rug vendor with your “serious face,” the next you’re are approached by a shop owner trying to sell you whatever he has . This part of Tunisia, from Mahdia to Sousse isn’t the sassiest stop on any North African adventure. Package tourism is dominator here making it the only focus that locals have towards strangers something that made us struggle to find a single place to camp so after two days of checking things out we moved on.
Final stop ,the capital Tunis, where chaos and charm are in a committed relationship. One minute you’re fighting honking taxis stopping in the middle of the road to pick people up while a bit further down you find yourself in the Medina next to locals sipping espresso in a café that hasn’t changed since 1962. This city serves you Roman ruins, Ottoman bling, and French flair like it’s no big deal. And just when you think you’ve figured it out, Tunis throws in a spicy harissa kick and a street vendor yelling “Bonjour habibi!” It’s wild. It’s wonderful. It’s the perfect ending!
As we lined up to catch the boat back to Italy, this leg of the journey reminded us one thing , Overlanding isn’t just about reaching destinations. It’s about the space between them, the quiet drives, the unexpected finds, and the way the road shapes the story as much as the places themselves.
